Post by Iconic944ss on Jul 28, 2017 22:13:06 GMT
Supplement to FCR carb kit installation instructions:
These are general guidelines written in the same spirit as a Haynes or Clymer manual.
When removing the stock carbs, you will need to replace the stock hose clamp on the fuel line at the carbs with a small screw type hose clamp. Note: two people have reported fuel dumping after hard running. I believe this to be caused by the return hose being pinched. Make sure that the return line from the 'Y' fitting isn't pinched or kinked.
There are two hose fittings on the FCRs. The bottom one is for the fuel and the top one is a vent. I normally attach the top one to a hose running to the side of the bike. Beware that fuel may pour out of this vent, so a catch can may be in order. On my machine, I normally leave nothing on the vent.
New carbs come with a light oil in them, drain the float bowls by removing the 14mm cap as well as repeatedly opening the throttles and actuating the accelerator pumps.
It is good practice to lube the throttle cables prior to installation.
The nice velocity stacks that come with the kit aren't used. Instead, you use the airbox adapters. You'll need a 4mm "ball" allen hex tool to tighten the adapter screws with, as you do not have a straight shot at the screws otherwise.
Route the throttle cables around the front of the steering stem above the fairing brace to the left side of the bike. Then route them in under the frame rail that the gas tank rests on. When attaching the cables, be sure not to angle the metal fittings at the carb end of the cables out too far as they will rub the inside of the gas tank. The FCRs have no choke; either zip tie the choke cable end safely to the frame or go through the effort to remove the choke cable assembly (not a trivial task.)
The easiest way to install the airbox is to completely remove the rubber manifolds that fit onto the top of the carbs. Stretch them over the large openings of the FCRs and tighten the hose clamps. Next, fit the airbox over the manifolds and install the manifolds in the airbox. This is a long and tedious step but stick with it. Use a phillips head screwdriver to help press the manifold into place by working it from the inside or to help peel the flange over the airbox opening. It helps to fold the manifold inward on itself.
Future instances of removing and replacing the airbox do not require the hose clamps as the manifolds fit very tightly. You also won't need to repeat the grueling experience of removing the manifolds from the airbox, either, but only if you don't insist on using the hose clamps.
Changing exhaust headers, porting the heads, or installing a big bore kit may require jetting changes. The jets are Keihin "long hex" jets, and are reasonably common. Jetting changes are simple. You can leave the bike on the sidestand, lift the fuel tank and close the fuel petcock valve, remove the right fairing, and use 14mm and 6mm drive sockets. Get a spare aerosol can lid to catch fuel from the float bowls, remove the float bowl cover cap with the 14mm socket, then the jet with the 6mm socket. Be sure not to overtighten the jet when reinstalling the new one. Finger tight plus one-eighth of a turn more is adequate.
Installation can take from 2 to 4 hours depending on your resources, skill level, and speed that you work.
These are general guidelines written in the same spirit as a Haynes or Clymer manual.
When removing the stock carbs, you will need to replace the stock hose clamp on the fuel line at the carbs with a small screw type hose clamp. Note: two people have reported fuel dumping after hard running. I believe this to be caused by the return hose being pinched. Make sure that the return line from the 'Y' fitting isn't pinched or kinked.
There are two hose fittings on the FCRs. The bottom one is for the fuel and the top one is a vent. I normally attach the top one to a hose running to the side of the bike. Beware that fuel may pour out of this vent, so a catch can may be in order. On my machine, I normally leave nothing on the vent.
New carbs come with a light oil in them, drain the float bowls by removing the 14mm cap as well as repeatedly opening the throttles and actuating the accelerator pumps.
It is good practice to lube the throttle cables prior to installation.
The nice velocity stacks that come with the kit aren't used. Instead, you use the airbox adapters. You'll need a 4mm "ball" allen hex tool to tighten the adapter screws with, as you do not have a straight shot at the screws otherwise.
Route the throttle cables around the front of the steering stem above the fairing brace to the left side of the bike. Then route them in under the frame rail that the gas tank rests on. When attaching the cables, be sure not to angle the metal fittings at the carb end of the cables out too far as they will rub the inside of the gas tank. The FCRs have no choke; either zip tie the choke cable end safely to the frame or go through the effort to remove the choke cable assembly (not a trivial task.)
The easiest way to install the airbox is to completely remove the rubber manifolds that fit onto the top of the carbs. Stretch them over the large openings of the FCRs and tighten the hose clamps. Next, fit the airbox over the manifolds and install the manifolds in the airbox. This is a long and tedious step but stick with it. Use a phillips head screwdriver to help press the manifold into place by working it from the inside or to help peel the flange over the airbox opening. It helps to fold the manifold inward on itself.
Future instances of removing and replacing the airbox do not require the hose clamps as the manifolds fit very tightly. You also won't need to repeat the grueling experience of removing the manifolds from the airbox, either, but only if you don't insist on using the hose clamps.
Changing exhaust headers, porting the heads, or installing a big bore kit may require jetting changes. The jets are Keihin "long hex" jets, and are reasonably common. Jetting changes are simple. You can leave the bike on the sidestand, lift the fuel tank and close the fuel petcock valve, remove the right fairing, and use 14mm and 6mm drive sockets. Get a spare aerosol can lid to catch fuel from the float bowls, remove the float bowl cover cap with the 14mm socket, then the jet with the 6mm socket. Be sure not to overtighten the jet when reinstalling the new one. Finger tight plus one-eighth of a turn more is adequate.
Installation can take from 2 to 4 hours depending on your resources, skill level, and speed that you work.