Post by Iconic944ss on Nov 5, 2012 23:58:20 GMT
Sorry no photo's but at least I could recover the text, thanks to the WayBack Machine:
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How to "fix" the 900ss mufflers...
First off, I have to give credit to Dan Shuck for posting the original version of this to The Ducati Index. Thanks also go to Paul Cho for pointing out a typo I did on the measurements. I'm not re-writing Dan's "how to" portion, I'm just adding some pictures and a couple of alternatives to help you through the process. This is an easy process with great results. Getting rid of the stock muffler baffles saves a lot of weight and the new baffles sound great.
I have used two variations of the baffle. I had a set of Dan Shuck recommended 1-5/8" baffle tubes made and a set of 2-1/2" baffle tubes made. As logic would dictate, the 2-1/2" baffles are louder. They sound great but might be annoying if you're after a mellower sound. An example of how loud the 2-1/2" baffles are; they will definitely set off all the car alarms in a car port. The 1-5/16" baffles will only set off the real sensitive alarms (heh-heh). I haven't noticed a performance difference from one to the other.
The stock muffler consists of several parts:
A. The stainless steel input cap which is attached to the exhaust pipe.
B. The baffle assembly (one piece) which is spot welded to the input cap.
C. The outer aluminum cannister which is held on by the mounting bracket and the output end cap.
D. The stainless steel output end cap.
Here's how to fix them:
1. Remove the mufflers from the bike.
2. Remove the two 8mm bolts that attach the mounting bracket to the muffler. These two bolts go through the bracket, through the muffler can and secure to the actual baffle assembly.
3. Mark the stainless input cap and aluminum outer cannister with a magic mark for indexing upon assembly. Do the same with the stainless end cap/cannister on the output end of the assembly.
4. Drill out the three rivets holding the stainless end cap onto the baffle assembly (3/16 bit).
5. With the end cap off, the outer cannister can be removed by tapping the baffle assembly.
6. Dan Shuck suggests using a grinding wheel to remove the welds securing the baffle assembly to the input cap. I suggest using a hacksaw to cut the baffle off at the edge of the end cap. I've done it both ways and the hacksaw method is much faster/easier. Here's what it looks like before and after cutting.
7. There is a perforated tube (approx. 1-5/8" o.d.) that protrudes from the input cap. Cut it to an approximate 1" length. It should look like this...
8. Place the outer cannister back on the input cap and lign up your index marks. Attach with four 3/16" pop rivets with a 1/4" reach. Place the rivets at 90 degree intervals. Using 8mm flat washers and lock nuts on the inside, attach the mufflers back to the muffler brackets. There should be wear marks on the cannister to ease in alignment of the brackets.
9. Aircone (in Nevada 702-566-1077) is the place to order your new baffles. They know the Ducati specs but just in case, you want a 4" O.D. endcap with a 1-5/8" or 2-1/2" perforated tube attached that protrudes 15-3/8" into the muffler. A pair made of steel will cost about $50.00. The stainless alternative is about $70.00.
10. Attach the stock stainless end cap to the Aircone baffle with three 3/16" x 1/4" rivets.
11. Wrap the perforated tube with fiberglass muffler packing (also available from Aircone).
12. Slide the new innards into the cannister. The perforated tube from Aircone will slip right over the 1" long tube protruding from the inlet cap.
13. Rivet the output endcap onto the cannister just like you riveted the input side. Make sure to keep the output rivets in line with the input rivets (so it looks sano).
14. ENJOY!
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How to "fix" the 900ss mufflers...
First off, I have to give credit to Dan Shuck for posting the original version of this to The Ducati Index. Thanks also go to Paul Cho for pointing out a typo I did on the measurements. I'm not re-writing Dan's "how to" portion, I'm just adding some pictures and a couple of alternatives to help you through the process. This is an easy process with great results. Getting rid of the stock muffler baffles saves a lot of weight and the new baffles sound great.
I have used two variations of the baffle. I had a set of Dan Shuck recommended 1-5/8" baffle tubes made and a set of 2-1/2" baffle tubes made. As logic would dictate, the 2-1/2" baffles are louder. They sound great but might be annoying if you're after a mellower sound. An example of how loud the 2-1/2" baffles are; they will definitely set off all the car alarms in a car port. The 1-5/16" baffles will only set off the real sensitive alarms (heh-heh). I haven't noticed a performance difference from one to the other.
The stock muffler consists of several parts:
A. The stainless steel input cap which is attached to the exhaust pipe.
B. The baffle assembly (one piece) which is spot welded to the input cap.
C. The outer aluminum cannister which is held on by the mounting bracket and the output end cap.
D. The stainless steel output end cap.
Here's how to fix them:
1. Remove the mufflers from the bike.
2. Remove the two 8mm bolts that attach the mounting bracket to the muffler. These two bolts go through the bracket, through the muffler can and secure to the actual baffle assembly.
3. Mark the stainless input cap and aluminum outer cannister with a magic mark for indexing upon assembly. Do the same with the stainless end cap/cannister on the output end of the assembly.
4. Drill out the three rivets holding the stainless end cap onto the baffle assembly (3/16 bit).
5. With the end cap off, the outer cannister can be removed by tapping the baffle assembly.
6. Dan Shuck suggests using a grinding wheel to remove the welds securing the baffle assembly to the input cap. I suggest using a hacksaw to cut the baffle off at the edge of the end cap. I've done it both ways and the hacksaw method is much faster/easier. Here's what it looks like before and after cutting.
7. There is a perforated tube (approx. 1-5/8" o.d.) that protrudes from the input cap. Cut it to an approximate 1" length. It should look like this...
8. Place the outer cannister back on the input cap and lign up your index marks. Attach with four 3/16" pop rivets with a 1/4" reach. Place the rivets at 90 degree intervals. Using 8mm flat washers and lock nuts on the inside, attach the mufflers back to the muffler brackets. There should be wear marks on the cannister to ease in alignment of the brackets.
9. Aircone (in Nevada 702-566-1077) is the place to order your new baffles. They know the Ducati specs but just in case, you want a 4" O.D. endcap with a 1-5/8" or 2-1/2" perforated tube attached that protrudes 15-3/8" into the muffler. A pair made of steel will cost about $50.00. The stainless alternative is about $70.00.
10. Attach the stock stainless end cap to the Aircone baffle with three 3/16" x 1/4" rivets.
11. Wrap the perforated tube with fiberglass muffler packing (also available from Aircone).
12. Slide the new innards into the cannister. The perforated tube from Aircone will slip right over the 1" long tube protruding from the inlet cap.
13. Rivet the output endcap onto the cannister just like you riveted the input side. Make sure to keep the output rivets in line with the input rivets (so it looks sano).
14. ENJOY!