Post by Iconic944ss on Nov 6, 2012 0:05:59 GMT
Replacing Tires on the '87 Paso 750
For any of the "other" victims of 16 inch wheels out where
When it was time to replace the worn tires on my 87 Paso I was faced with a problem - buy Michelin 59s or do whatever it takes to replace my 16" wheels with 17" wheels. Neither of these options thrilled me. The 59s are ok (some people say they're fine, some say they suck) but I wanted stickier rubber.
I called Metzler and found out two interesting things:
1) They MBS COMP Ks in 160/70 16" rear will work with the 130/70 16" front. Although they no longer produce the 130/70 16" front I was able to track one down with a few minutes of phone work. The tires are great! They stick great, fit with a simple mod that raises the front fender a few mm and as an unexpected bonus, raise the height of the bike so that getting it on the center stand is extremely easy now.
2) The Sales Rep at Metzler said that they have been receiving so many inquiries related to the Paso/750 Sport wheels, that they may produce some tires specifically for the bike in 97.
Anyone interested in getting a better performing tire for your Paso/750 Sport should call Metzler and let them know that there is some genuine interest out here. Metzler can be reached at (610) 458-9662 (USA).
by Manny Ytuarte
Repairing the Clutch Master Cylinder on the M600/M900
On many models (M600/900) the microfilm states that you cannot repair the clutch master cylinder, this is incorrect.
You can repair it using repair kit part number 0000-47226. This applies to master cylinders with part number 6304-0031a, etc. If anyone requires any other questions answered they are welcome to get in touch with me and I would be glad to help. I also stock a large range of parts so the problems some U.S. dealers/riders have been having locating parts I can confidently sort out.
by Derek Beattie
Deristricting Ducati Mufflers
If the idea of spending 500 bucks for a set of mufflers doesn't appeal to you read on. The stock mufflers can be modified to the construction of an after-market slip on without too much grief or expense by following the steps:
1. Remove mufflers and the two 8MM bolts that attach the mounting brackets.
2. Mark the stainless input cap and aluminum outer cannister with a magic marker for indexing upon assembly. Do the same with the stainless end cap and other end of the aluminum cannister.
3. Drill out the three rivets holding on the stainless end cap (3/16 bit).
4. Have someone hold the aluminum outer can and drive the inner muffler assembly out. (Place a large socket over the small outlet pipe and use the end of a short 2X4 to drive the innards out). Remove the fiberglass packing.
5. Using a 4 inch disk grinder, grind off the 3 welds that hold the large perforated stainless tube to the input cap. A sharp chisel helps to get that last bit of weld broke loose. Don't worry about damaging the large stainless outer tube, but be careful with the input cap. You will now have a large and heavy piece of restictive steel in your hands. If you have a neighbor you don't like, throw it in his pool.
6. Cut the short perforated tube (about 1 5/8 O.D.) that protrudes from the input cap so that 1 inch remains. Use a ballpeen hammer to straighten and round the tube as it will be slightly angled and oval.
7. Place the outer aluminum cannister back on the input cap (remember the indexing marks) and attach with four 3/16 pop rivets with a 1/4 reach. Place the rivets at 90 degree intervals. Using 8MM flat washers and lock nuts on the inside, attach the muffler brackets onto the aluminum cannister you just riveted on (There should be wear marks on the muffler and bracket so you get them back in their original location).
8. You are probably saying "Hey, now there is nothing in my silencer and the stock innards are in Senator Kennedy's pool". This is where Aircone in Nevada (702-566-1077) will come to your rescue. Have them make you up a 4 inch O.D. end cap with a 1 5/8 inch I.D. perforated tube attached that protrudes 15 3/8 inch into the muffler. A pair made of steel will set you back about $50 and stainless construction is $20 more.(Steel ones can be painted with high heat cast finish paint).
9. Attach the stock stainless end cap onto the Aircone assembly with three 3/16 X 1/4 rivets.
10. Wrap the perforated tube with fiberglass muffler packing. Duct tape works well to hold the packing under wraps for assembly.
11. Slide the new innards into the cannister. The perforated tube from Aircone will slip right over the tube you previously shortened to 1 inch if you got it fairly round. Index your mark again before driving it home.
12. Just as you riveted the input side, rivet the end cap on. (Keep them in line with the input rivets so it looks sano).
The bike will now sound sweet (Your neighbor with the pool may disagree as you rattle his windows). If you have a Superbike install a stage 1 chip (I like the FIM), and if a SS use the Euro jetting (I like this method) or a stage 1 Dynojet kit. Just don't tell the neighbor that "Dan told me how".
by Dan Shuck
dsducati@ltec.net
Exposing a 900SS Logo
On the bottom outside face of the forks there is a small reflector. It is attached with a sticky pad which is easily removed. The word "Ducati" is underneath it in raised letters on the forks. This looks much better than the useless reflector.
by Tim Simpson
900 SS, CR, SP Jetting Tips
There are different methods of rejetting your bike when aftermarket mufflers are installed or you simply don't like the long warm up periods. Here are the methods I have tried, and the pros and cons of each.
1. Euro jetting: Change the stock 5C22 needle to a 5C19. The 2 needles are the same except for the adjustable clip position in the Euro needle. Set the clip in the #5 (from the top) groove. Change the stock 37.5 pilot to a 42.5. Bike will warm up quicker and not surge at low throttle settings. Fuel economy is good and since this mod leaves the Airbox alone, intake noise is low. Good choice for sport touring.
2. Stage 1 Dyno Jet: This kit is designed for the stock airbox. The lighter slide springs improve throttle response. The needle is much richer than stock and runs rather rich. I found that installing the needle clip in a leaner setting than recommended helps. Mid range is good and warm ups are quicker. Utilizes stock pilots with fuel screw cranked full out. I prefer to use the Euro pilot and set the fuel mixture myself.
3. Stage 2 Dyno Jet: This kit is designed for an open airbox with a K/N and aftermarket silencers. The lighter slide springs help throttle response. Nice boost in mid range and top end performance. Dyno tests show 6-7 HP gains. Removing the airbox lid sets all the factory Ducati jetting work back to the start. Won't carburate as cleanly at all RPM's and throttle settings like the factory Euro jetting. Exhibits a stumble or confused area under 3000 when the throttle is quickly wicked fully open from the basement, but who does that anyway. Again I like to use the Euro pilot jets. Intake roar will resonate your brains at some throttle/RPM settings!
Notes: If the performance of the Stage 2 has your attention, but you don't want the intake noise, install a K/N filter designed for the stock airbox and use the stock lid with the snorkels removed. The snorkel diameter is only 30MM but the housing holes are 60MM. Intake noise is much less and it still runs ok. If you installed a Stage 1 and don't like the results, the needles and springs are VERY similar between the early Stage 1 I removed from my bike and the Stage 2. The difference is in the mains. Install 145 Mikuni mains and open the airbox. Finally, the Euro method carburates ok, but don't expect gains like the Stage 2.
Summary: If sport touring is your thing and clean running and fuel economy are important issues, I would have to go with the Euro method. If you are after "balls to the walls" performance, Stage 2!
Update: I have helped the 3000 RPM stumble on my 900SS with the Stage 2 by installing the 42.5 Euro pilot jets and installing the 144 mains from the kit. Would like to hear some feedback on the Factory jet kit.
The following Dyno Results are from a Dyno Jet 100 with temp. Around 80 degrees Farenheight and an altitude close to 4,000 feet.
DynoRun 1
Stock 900SS DynoRun 2
D&D CF Cannisters
Dyno Jet Stage 2 K/N with filter ring DynoRun 3
Same mods as run 2
11-1 Pistoms Intake manifolds
RPM HP Torque HP Torque HP Torque
3000 26 46 22 38 28 49
3500 32 46 32 46 36 54
4000 36 48 40 52 46 60
4500 41 47 46 55 53 62
5000 50 53 56 60 62 66
5500 55 54 63 59 68 66
6000 60 52 68 59 75 65
6500 66 53 74 58 81 65
7000 68 51 76 57 84 63
7500 66 45 75 53 83 56
8000 64 42 72 48 80 52
Note that the popular mods such as cans and stage 2 drop the performance slightly at 3,000, but from there on make nice gains. With the 11-1 pistons the low end is back and then some! 84 ponies and 66 ft lbs of torque is quite impressive. Similar runs with unmatched intakes yielded a drop of 3 HP or so up top. Worth the time.
by Dan Shuck
Brake mods for Ducati models with Dual Stainless Rotors (900SS, 851, 888, etc)
Before you start working on the brakes, make sure the adjuster on the lever hasn't been turned in too far in an attempt to remove free play. If it is in too far, the hole that connects the cylinder to the reservoir will not uncover as the brakes are released. This will cause the brakes to drag as the fluid gets warm. Be sure to use DOT 4 brake fluid as it has a higher boiling point than DOT 3. Here are the mods I have tried and the benefits.
1. Replacing the stock pads with aftermarket. I have had good luck with those from SBS. The stockers seem to lose their bite as they heat up and transfer a lot of heat into the caliper and fluid. Hard riding brake fade went away after I installed the SBS pads.
2. Kevlar lines will give you a more solid feel at the lever and seem to be less effected by fluid heat.
3. Brembo knows how to make pad/rotor combinations out of cast iron that work. Although costly, the 900 SS SP system works well.
Note: If after all the above methods have been tried and the brakes still have a mushy feel with lots of lever travel before biting, the stock stainless rotors are probably slightly warped. After much grief, I finally fixed my 888 brakes by installing the cast iron rotors.
Update: Repeated use of the front brake will make the fluid overheat, but some of the bikes exibit fade after only a few hard applications. In either case the brakes work fine during normal riding but the lever feels mushy after use. In the latter case the rotors heat up quickly, and warp slightly. This tends to push the pistons into the caliper slightly, and the increased lever travel is due to moving the pistons towards the rotors. The stock pads (or any organic pad for that matter) tend to insulate the calipers from the heat, thus retaining it in the rotors. If this is your symptoms, a set of the new EBC sintered metal pads (which transfer heat to the caliper better than organics) may help a lot. The sintered pads also retain their coefficient of friction better than organics at higher temperatures. They are a bit harder on the rotors though.
by Dan Shuck
Stuttering 750SS
If you find your 750 SS rattling and stuttering under 3000 rpm try Termignoni alu mufflers. At DM 1000 with european license they provide a much better pull from as low as 2000 rpm (I had t replace the original mufflers due to a slide. Don't trust the Michelin factory equipment tires!)
by HB
Free Horsepower
Free HP: Yes, I know this sounds too good to be true but: wrap up those exhaust pipes with fibreglas or asbestos heat wrap right from head to can. Don’t forget to clamp with lockwire every three inches cuz you don’t want that stuff flapping in the breeze and lubricating the sprocket. It makes your bike look real racetrack too. Not to mention that it’s cheap like borscht as a bonus. I’m told that it gives you about three horsepower, more or less. This wrap can be obtained at bike shops, but is cheaper from an industrial supplier. I used two inch by one-eighth inch. Enjoy!
by Patrick Fox
916 Cannister Deristriction
The cans on the 916 can be deristricted in a manner similar to the 900. The core dimensions are not easy to express in standard terms(oval end cap) so if anyone is interested in doing this contact me and I'll send you a copy of the blue print for aircone to work off of.
by Dan Shuck
Broken 888 Crank
Just to inform owners of the dangers of ignoring the oil pressure warning light. Whilst out on a beautiful Sunday afternoon riding my 1993 888 Strada, I noticed the oil pressure warning light flickering on and off, I stopped the bike and checked the oil level. OK. I tried the engine once again, still flickering. I checked the connection to the oil pressure switch which was fine, so Iet the bike cool down for an hour or so whilst I had a drink at a local pub. I tried the bike again and the oil light stayed out so I carried on, not for much longer. I heard an awful rattle along with the oil light illuminating again. At this point I thought that the big end bearings had failed so I got recovered back to my home.
On stripping the engine, instead of only finding the big ends destroyed I also found the crank snapped probably due to fatigue. Replacement costs approx 800 pounds sterling plus all the other spares required when the engine gets stripped. Acording to Baines Racing at Silverstone in the UK who are a Ducati and Moto Guzzi specialist th is extremely rare for big ends to go let alone the crank to break. so dont worry but be prepared if you have the same symptoms as I had. here is a picture of the offending item.
by Andy?
Free Horsepower II
If you want some free horsepower just take out the screens in the air intakes. These screens are to restrictive and do not allow enough air flow. You will not believe the difference. If you are really bold you can cut out the intake even larger. More air more power. Just make sure you check your air filters more often.
by Todd Fischer
Icing carburetors or a cold twin single
This is a story of a men that rides his ducati in cold wet days and nights. Icing carburetors is not a new story with ducatis; this is how I solved the problem. Bike: ducati 750ss 1994 First you need to know that if you are using a Oil heater kid then the oil will not reach effective operating temperature until the oil reached 70 degrees. This will not be achieved if you start your bike and immediately go to highway speeds of one hundred kilometers per hour or more.
The Oil heater kit is only effective in a suburban situation where you have stop start riding which gives the Oil time to reach 70 degrees. It has been my observation there whilst reaching 70 degrees the oil remains stable in temperature before this point the Oil will react quite significantly to changing air temperature. The importer of ducatis into Australia did several major research and development ideas to rectify my problem none of which totally fixed the problem, a list is as following.
1: Oil heater kit
2: A carburetor covering to shield them from the wind Chill factor and cold.
3: Increasing the Oil restricter plates above the Oil Filter
4: They inserted electronic heater unit into the bottom of each of the carburetor bowls, this electronic heating drew so much electrical current, that a 916 alternator was fitted to supply enough power. This was the best of all the fixes that they tried but it failed because the icing problem as two faces.
Firstly the icing of the carburetor bowls secondly the inlet memerfoldes were icing to. As the problem was not rectified this led me to take legal action Against the importer and the dealer.
I was successful in receiving compensation from the above parties, as they were not able to rectify this problem.
I have trailed fitting kehin carburetors to my bike and have found them to offer the best solution I have found to address the icing problem. This fix was deemed not exsepterble to the importers as I believe it would have set a precedent that they would be legally obligated to extend to all use is with a similar problem. If you have any further questions you can contact me at my e-mail
by Fred Wood
Belt Tension
Ref all belt driven twins. Never over tighten your belts! I did just that and one broke a few months later destroying two intake valves. After putting my 888's engine back together after replacing the crankshaft (see 888 broken crank article) I obviously over tightened the belts. Which is easy to do. Needless to say, the front one snapped whilst in a most inaccessible area of France. Upon receiving advice from Baines Racing (on (UK)01327 858510), the correct method (on 8 valve models) is :
Whilst turning the tensioner towards the top of the head, tighten the belt until, with moderate thumb pressure on the underside of the belt and between the camshaft pulleys, the top surface of the belt is flush with the belt cover casting on the cylinder head.
Please don't rely on learning from your mistakes like I had to. Happy Ducatiing.
For any of the "other" victims of 16 inch wheels out where
When it was time to replace the worn tires on my 87 Paso I was faced with a problem - buy Michelin 59s or do whatever it takes to replace my 16" wheels with 17" wheels. Neither of these options thrilled me. The 59s are ok (some people say they're fine, some say they suck) but I wanted stickier rubber.
I called Metzler and found out two interesting things:
1) They MBS COMP Ks in 160/70 16" rear will work with the 130/70 16" front. Although they no longer produce the 130/70 16" front I was able to track one down with a few minutes of phone work. The tires are great! They stick great, fit with a simple mod that raises the front fender a few mm and as an unexpected bonus, raise the height of the bike so that getting it on the center stand is extremely easy now.
2) The Sales Rep at Metzler said that they have been receiving so many inquiries related to the Paso/750 Sport wheels, that they may produce some tires specifically for the bike in 97.
Anyone interested in getting a better performing tire for your Paso/750 Sport should call Metzler and let them know that there is some genuine interest out here. Metzler can be reached at (610) 458-9662 (USA).
by Manny Ytuarte
Repairing the Clutch Master Cylinder on the M600/M900
On many models (M600/900) the microfilm states that you cannot repair the clutch master cylinder, this is incorrect.
You can repair it using repair kit part number 0000-47226. This applies to master cylinders with part number 6304-0031a, etc. If anyone requires any other questions answered they are welcome to get in touch with me and I would be glad to help. I also stock a large range of parts so the problems some U.S. dealers/riders have been having locating parts I can confidently sort out.
by Derek Beattie
Deristricting Ducati Mufflers
If the idea of spending 500 bucks for a set of mufflers doesn't appeal to you read on. The stock mufflers can be modified to the construction of an after-market slip on without too much grief or expense by following the steps:
1. Remove mufflers and the two 8MM bolts that attach the mounting brackets.
2. Mark the stainless input cap and aluminum outer cannister with a magic marker for indexing upon assembly. Do the same with the stainless end cap and other end of the aluminum cannister.
3. Drill out the three rivets holding on the stainless end cap (3/16 bit).
4. Have someone hold the aluminum outer can and drive the inner muffler assembly out. (Place a large socket over the small outlet pipe and use the end of a short 2X4 to drive the innards out). Remove the fiberglass packing.
5. Using a 4 inch disk grinder, grind off the 3 welds that hold the large perforated stainless tube to the input cap. A sharp chisel helps to get that last bit of weld broke loose. Don't worry about damaging the large stainless outer tube, but be careful with the input cap. You will now have a large and heavy piece of restictive steel in your hands. If you have a neighbor you don't like, throw it in his pool.
6. Cut the short perforated tube (about 1 5/8 O.D.) that protrudes from the input cap so that 1 inch remains. Use a ballpeen hammer to straighten and round the tube as it will be slightly angled and oval.
7. Place the outer aluminum cannister back on the input cap (remember the indexing marks) and attach with four 3/16 pop rivets with a 1/4 reach. Place the rivets at 90 degree intervals. Using 8MM flat washers and lock nuts on the inside, attach the muffler brackets onto the aluminum cannister you just riveted on (There should be wear marks on the muffler and bracket so you get them back in their original location).
8. You are probably saying "Hey, now there is nothing in my silencer and the stock innards are in Senator Kennedy's pool". This is where Aircone in Nevada (702-566-1077) will come to your rescue. Have them make you up a 4 inch O.D. end cap with a 1 5/8 inch I.D. perforated tube attached that protrudes 15 3/8 inch into the muffler. A pair made of steel will set you back about $50 and stainless construction is $20 more.(Steel ones can be painted with high heat cast finish paint).
9. Attach the stock stainless end cap onto the Aircone assembly with three 3/16 X 1/4 rivets.
10. Wrap the perforated tube with fiberglass muffler packing. Duct tape works well to hold the packing under wraps for assembly.
11. Slide the new innards into the cannister. The perforated tube from Aircone will slip right over the tube you previously shortened to 1 inch if you got it fairly round. Index your mark again before driving it home.
12. Just as you riveted the input side, rivet the end cap on. (Keep them in line with the input rivets so it looks sano).
The bike will now sound sweet (Your neighbor with the pool may disagree as you rattle his windows). If you have a Superbike install a stage 1 chip (I like the FIM), and if a SS use the Euro jetting (I like this method) or a stage 1 Dynojet kit. Just don't tell the neighbor that "Dan told me how".
by Dan Shuck
dsducati@ltec.net
Exposing a 900SS Logo
On the bottom outside face of the forks there is a small reflector. It is attached with a sticky pad which is easily removed. The word "Ducati" is underneath it in raised letters on the forks. This looks much better than the useless reflector.
by Tim Simpson
900 SS, CR, SP Jetting Tips
There are different methods of rejetting your bike when aftermarket mufflers are installed or you simply don't like the long warm up periods. Here are the methods I have tried, and the pros and cons of each.
1. Euro jetting: Change the stock 5C22 needle to a 5C19. The 2 needles are the same except for the adjustable clip position in the Euro needle. Set the clip in the #5 (from the top) groove. Change the stock 37.5 pilot to a 42.5. Bike will warm up quicker and not surge at low throttle settings. Fuel economy is good and since this mod leaves the Airbox alone, intake noise is low. Good choice for sport touring.
2. Stage 1 Dyno Jet: This kit is designed for the stock airbox. The lighter slide springs improve throttle response. The needle is much richer than stock and runs rather rich. I found that installing the needle clip in a leaner setting than recommended helps. Mid range is good and warm ups are quicker. Utilizes stock pilots with fuel screw cranked full out. I prefer to use the Euro pilot and set the fuel mixture myself.
3. Stage 2 Dyno Jet: This kit is designed for an open airbox with a K/N and aftermarket silencers. The lighter slide springs help throttle response. Nice boost in mid range and top end performance. Dyno tests show 6-7 HP gains. Removing the airbox lid sets all the factory Ducati jetting work back to the start. Won't carburate as cleanly at all RPM's and throttle settings like the factory Euro jetting. Exhibits a stumble or confused area under 3000 when the throttle is quickly wicked fully open from the basement, but who does that anyway. Again I like to use the Euro pilot jets. Intake roar will resonate your brains at some throttle/RPM settings!
Notes: If the performance of the Stage 2 has your attention, but you don't want the intake noise, install a K/N filter designed for the stock airbox and use the stock lid with the snorkels removed. The snorkel diameter is only 30MM but the housing holes are 60MM. Intake noise is much less and it still runs ok. If you installed a Stage 1 and don't like the results, the needles and springs are VERY similar between the early Stage 1 I removed from my bike and the Stage 2. The difference is in the mains. Install 145 Mikuni mains and open the airbox. Finally, the Euro method carburates ok, but don't expect gains like the Stage 2.
Summary: If sport touring is your thing and clean running and fuel economy are important issues, I would have to go with the Euro method. If you are after "balls to the walls" performance, Stage 2!
Update: I have helped the 3000 RPM stumble on my 900SS with the Stage 2 by installing the 42.5 Euro pilot jets and installing the 144 mains from the kit. Would like to hear some feedback on the Factory jet kit.
The following Dyno Results are from a Dyno Jet 100 with temp. Around 80 degrees Farenheight and an altitude close to 4,000 feet.
DynoRun 1
Stock 900SS DynoRun 2
D&D CF Cannisters
Dyno Jet Stage 2 K/N with filter ring DynoRun 3
Same mods as run 2
11-1 Pistoms Intake manifolds
RPM HP Torque HP Torque HP Torque
3000 26 46 22 38 28 49
3500 32 46 32 46 36 54
4000 36 48 40 52 46 60
4500 41 47 46 55 53 62
5000 50 53 56 60 62 66
5500 55 54 63 59 68 66
6000 60 52 68 59 75 65
6500 66 53 74 58 81 65
7000 68 51 76 57 84 63
7500 66 45 75 53 83 56
8000 64 42 72 48 80 52
Note that the popular mods such as cans and stage 2 drop the performance slightly at 3,000, but from there on make nice gains. With the 11-1 pistons the low end is back and then some! 84 ponies and 66 ft lbs of torque is quite impressive. Similar runs with unmatched intakes yielded a drop of 3 HP or so up top. Worth the time.
by Dan Shuck
Brake mods for Ducati models with Dual Stainless Rotors (900SS, 851, 888, etc)
Before you start working on the brakes, make sure the adjuster on the lever hasn't been turned in too far in an attempt to remove free play. If it is in too far, the hole that connects the cylinder to the reservoir will not uncover as the brakes are released. This will cause the brakes to drag as the fluid gets warm. Be sure to use DOT 4 brake fluid as it has a higher boiling point than DOT 3. Here are the mods I have tried and the benefits.
1. Replacing the stock pads with aftermarket. I have had good luck with those from SBS. The stockers seem to lose their bite as they heat up and transfer a lot of heat into the caliper and fluid. Hard riding brake fade went away after I installed the SBS pads.
2. Kevlar lines will give you a more solid feel at the lever and seem to be less effected by fluid heat.
3. Brembo knows how to make pad/rotor combinations out of cast iron that work. Although costly, the 900 SS SP system works well.
Note: If after all the above methods have been tried and the brakes still have a mushy feel with lots of lever travel before biting, the stock stainless rotors are probably slightly warped. After much grief, I finally fixed my 888 brakes by installing the cast iron rotors.
Update: Repeated use of the front brake will make the fluid overheat, but some of the bikes exibit fade after only a few hard applications. In either case the brakes work fine during normal riding but the lever feels mushy after use. In the latter case the rotors heat up quickly, and warp slightly. This tends to push the pistons into the caliper slightly, and the increased lever travel is due to moving the pistons towards the rotors. The stock pads (or any organic pad for that matter) tend to insulate the calipers from the heat, thus retaining it in the rotors. If this is your symptoms, a set of the new EBC sintered metal pads (which transfer heat to the caliper better than organics) may help a lot. The sintered pads also retain their coefficient of friction better than organics at higher temperatures. They are a bit harder on the rotors though.
by Dan Shuck
Stuttering 750SS
If you find your 750 SS rattling and stuttering under 3000 rpm try Termignoni alu mufflers. At DM 1000 with european license they provide a much better pull from as low as 2000 rpm (I had t replace the original mufflers due to a slide. Don't trust the Michelin factory equipment tires!)
by HB
Free Horsepower
Free HP: Yes, I know this sounds too good to be true but: wrap up those exhaust pipes with fibreglas or asbestos heat wrap right from head to can. Don’t forget to clamp with lockwire every three inches cuz you don’t want that stuff flapping in the breeze and lubricating the sprocket. It makes your bike look real racetrack too. Not to mention that it’s cheap like borscht as a bonus. I’m told that it gives you about three horsepower, more or less. This wrap can be obtained at bike shops, but is cheaper from an industrial supplier. I used two inch by one-eighth inch. Enjoy!
by Patrick Fox
916 Cannister Deristriction
The cans on the 916 can be deristricted in a manner similar to the 900. The core dimensions are not easy to express in standard terms(oval end cap) so if anyone is interested in doing this contact me and I'll send you a copy of the blue print for aircone to work off of.
by Dan Shuck
Broken 888 Crank
Just to inform owners of the dangers of ignoring the oil pressure warning light. Whilst out on a beautiful Sunday afternoon riding my 1993 888 Strada, I noticed the oil pressure warning light flickering on and off, I stopped the bike and checked the oil level. OK. I tried the engine once again, still flickering. I checked the connection to the oil pressure switch which was fine, so Iet the bike cool down for an hour or so whilst I had a drink at a local pub. I tried the bike again and the oil light stayed out so I carried on, not for much longer. I heard an awful rattle along with the oil light illuminating again. At this point I thought that the big end bearings had failed so I got recovered back to my home.
On stripping the engine, instead of only finding the big ends destroyed I also found the crank snapped probably due to fatigue. Replacement costs approx 800 pounds sterling plus all the other spares required when the engine gets stripped. Acording to Baines Racing at Silverstone in the UK who are a Ducati and Moto Guzzi specialist th is extremely rare for big ends to go let alone the crank to break. so dont worry but be prepared if you have the same symptoms as I had. here is a picture of the offending item.
by Andy?
Free Horsepower II
If you want some free horsepower just take out the screens in the air intakes. These screens are to restrictive and do not allow enough air flow. You will not believe the difference. If you are really bold you can cut out the intake even larger. More air more power. Just make sure you check your air filters more often.
by Todd Fischer
Icing carburetors or a cold twin single
This is a story of a men that rides his ducati in cold wet days and nights. Icing carburetors is not a new story with ducatis; this is how I solved the problem. Bike: ducati 750ss 1994 First you need to know that if you are using a Oil heater kid then the oil will not reach effective operating temperature until the oil reached 70 degrees. This will not be achieved if you start your bike and immediately go to highway speeds of one hundred kilometers per hour or more.
The Oil heater kit is only effective in a suburban situation where you have stop start riding which gives the Oil time to reach 70 degrees. It has been my observation there whilst reaching 70 degrees the oil remains stable in temperature before this point the Oil will react quite significantly to changing air temperature. The importer of ducatis into Australia did several major research and development ideas to rectify my problem none of which totally fixed the problem, a list is as following.
1: Oil heater kit
2: A carburetor covering to shield them from the wind Chill factor and cold.
3: Increasing the Oil restricter plates above the Oil Filter
4: They inserted electronic heater unit into the bottom of each of the carburetor bowls, this electronic heating drew so much electrical current, that a 916 alternator was fitted to supply enough power. This was the best of all the fixes that they tried but it failed because the icing problem as two faces.
Firstly the icing of the carburetor bowls secondly the inlet memerfoldes were icing to. As the problem was not rectified this led me to take legal action Against the importer and the dealer.
I was successful in receiving compensation from the above parties, as they were not able to rectify this problem.
I have trailed fitting kehin carburetors to my bike and have found them to offer the best solution I have found to address the icing problem. This fix was deemed not exsepterble to the importers as I believe it would have set a precedent that they would be legally obligated to extend to all use is with a similar problem. If you have any further questions you can contact me at my e-mail
by Fred Wood
Belt Tension
Ref all belt driven twins. Never over tighten your belts! I did just that and one broke a few months later destroying two intake valves. After putting my 888's engine back together after replacing the crankshaft (see 888 broken crank article) I obviously over tightened the belts. Which is easy to do. Needless to say, the front one snapped whilst in a most inaccessible area of France. Upon receiving advice from Baines Racing (on (UK)01327 858510), the correct method (on 8 valve models) is :
Whilst turning the tensioner towards the top of the head, tighten the belt until, with moderate thumb pressure on the underside of the belt and between the camshaft pulleys, the top surface of the belt is flush with the belt cover casting on the cylinder head.
Please don't rely on learning from your mistakes like I had to. Happy Ducatiing.