Post by Iconic944ss on Jan 6, 2024 22:55:03 GMT
*** I wish I could credit the author but I'm unsure who it is! ***
I'm afraid you also need to click the image links to see each photobuck image as they get watermarked here :-(
After much searching, I could never find a simple explanation on how the average backyard mechanic should go about removing their cush drives from the rear wheel when needed.
I thought I would share my experience with others in the hope it might help someone else who is searching for the same information.
I made a basic puller out of material you may have lying around your shop or is readily available at your local hardware store.
Items you will need are as follows:
• ½” threaded rod
• ½” nut with shoulder
• ½” nuts
• Assortment of ½” washers
• 1 ¼” pvc coupling.
• 2 ¾” wrenches
I believe I spent less the 10 bucks for everything I needed!
i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/vaduc1/001-1.jpg
I installed two of the nuts onto the threaded rod as locking nuts with a 3rd nut as the pulling nut.
i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/vaduc1/002-1.jpg
The trick was to insert the rod from the cush drive side and get the shouldered nut threaded on from the back side of the wheel.
i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/vaduc1/003-1.jpg
Once that is accomplished you will need to run the 3rd nut down to pull the cush drive out.
Using the locking nuts to prevent the threaded rod from spinning tighten down the pulling nut until you here a noise the sounds like a pop as the cush drive is “popped “ out of the wheel.
i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/vaduc1/004.jpg
Now simply rinse and repeat.
Once I realized that this was going to be a success, I started enjoying a cold one with each satisfying “pop”
All the cush drives removed and awaiting installation…
i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/vaduc1/007.jpg
==============================================================
The cush drive dampers were a breeze to install. The cush drive pins were much more of a challenge. More on that later, I stuck the dampers in the freezer overnight to help with the installation today. They were still a tight fit but did not prove to be any problem. I realized after taking a couple of measurements that they were indeed a press fit but nothing major. After reworking a couple washers on the puller assembly I was able to use it at a press instead of a puller.
i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/vaduc1/010.jpg
Once assembled it was straight forward on the install, checking to be sure everything was aligned properly and squared up to the hub.
i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/vaduc1/011.jpg
i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/vaduc1/014.jpg
i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/vaduc1/015.jpg
i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/vaduc1/012.jpg
Using the double lock nuts to keep the threaded rod from spinning it was very easy to dray the damper into the wheel. I did notice that the depth of the space for the damper was deeper than the damper itself. Choosing a washer that would press on the outside of the metal of the damper and not on the inside metal (much like installing a bearing) was the proper way to go.
i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/vaduc1/008.jpg
i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/vaduc1/009.jpg
i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/vaduc1/013.jpg
I'm afraid you also need to click the image links to see each photobuck image as they get watermarked here :-(
After much searching, I could never find a simple explanation on how the average backyard mechanic should go about removing their cush drives from the rear wheel when needed.
I thought I would share my experience with others in the hope it might help someone else who is searching for the same information.
I made a basic puller out of material you may have lying around your shop or is readily available at your local hardware store.
Items you will need are as follows:
• ½” threaded rod
• ½” nut with shoulder
• ½” nuts
• Assortment of ½” washers
• 1 ¼” pvc coupling.
• 2 ¾” wrenches
I believe I spent less the 10 bucks for everything I needed!
i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/vaduc1/001-1.jpg
I installed two of the nuts onto the threaded rod as locking nuts with a 3rd nut as the pulling nut.
i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/vaduc1/002-1.jpg
The trick was to insert the rod from the cush drive side and get the shouldered nut threaded on from the back side of the wheel.
i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/vaduc1/003-1.jpg
Once that is accomplished you will need to run the 3rd nut down to pull the cush drive out.
Using the locking nuts to prevent the threaded rod from spinning tighten down the pulling nut until you here a noise the sounds like a pop as the cush drive is “popped “ out of the wheel.
i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/vaduc1/004.jpg
Now simply rinse and repeat.
Once I realized that this was going to be a success, I started enjoying a cold one with each satisfying “pop”
All the cush drives removed and awaiting installation…
i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/vaduc1/007.jpg
==============================================================
The cush drive dampers were a breeze to install. The cush drive pins were much more of a challenge. More on that later, I stuck the dampers in the freezer overnight to help with the installation today. They were still a tight fit but did not prove to be any problem. I realized after taking a couple of measurements that they were indeed a press fit but nothing major. After reworking a couple washers on the puller assembly I was able to use it at a press instead of a puller.
i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/vaduc1/010.jpg
Once assembled it was straight forward on the install, checking to be sure everything was aligned properly and squared up to the hub.
i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/vaduc1/011.jpg
i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/vaduc1/014.jpg
i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/vaduc1/015.jpg
i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/vaduc1/012.jpg
Using the double lock nuts to keep the threaded rod from spinning it was very easy to dray the damper into the wheel. I did notice that the depth of the space for the damper was deeper than the damper itself. Choosing a washer that would press on the outside of the metal of the damper and not on the inside metal (much like installing a bearing) was the proper way to go.
i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/vaduc1/008.jpg
i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/vaduc1/009.jpg
i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/vaduc1/013.jpg